Faldas sencillas con vuelo en Greenery: a la moda y para trajes típicos

Da la casualidad de que el Greenery, color pantone 2017 es el de una micropana que compré para hacer unas faldas sencillas a unas niñas. Y que Momita’s blog ha estado realizando un cose conmigo de una falda muy similar hace poco.

Así que tanta casualidad me indica que es el momento de escribir sobre el tema y lo hago en forma de tutorial.

tutorial falda sencilla con vuelo con goma Greenery

En una publicación anterior os enseñé cómo aderecé unas camisetas utilizando retales de la tela verde Greenery para acompañarlas con estas faldas que componen el plato principal.

TUTORIAL FALDA SENCILLA CON VUELO

           1) DIBUJAMOS EL PATRÓN DE LA FALDA SENCILLA CON VUELO


Pasando al patrón de esta falda, en principio es muy sencillo:
Dibujamos un rectángulo de largo el largo de la falda más el doble de ancho de la goma que vamos a utilizar en la cintura más 1 cm de holgura y 1 cm de margen de costura y 4 o 5 cm de bajo.
Y para el ancho, dependerá de la tela. Si es ligera es mejor darle el doble del ancho de la cintura y si, como en este caso, es una tela con cuerpo, con 1,5 veces el ancho de cintura más 2 cm de margen de costura. Todo depende de cuánto vuelo queramos que tenga la falda.
Además, según las medidas de ancho que utilicemos, puede que tengamos suficiente con el ancho de la tela. Si no, tendremos que dividir en 2 el rectángulo y añadirle 1 cm a cada mitad para la costura. El patrón quedaría de esta manera en cada caso:

tutorial confección falda sencilla con vuelo
tutorial confección falda sencilla con vuelo
 

2) COSEMOS LA FALDA CON GOMA


En este modelo, lo más sencillo es coser primero las costuras rectas de los laterales, luego la cintura, en la que hay que dejar un trocito sin coser para poder meter la goma y, por último, el bajo.
Para los laterales utilizamos una costura sencilla. Si sólo tiene una costura os recuerdo que ésta se llevará en el lado izquierdo.
Para la cintura: primero rematamos el filo, luego doblamos dejando un espacio entre el filo y la costura algo mayor al ancho de la goma (con 1 cm hay de sobra). Y aquí podemos coser con una costura sencilla dejando el filo a la vista (más fácil) o coser con el filo doblado hacia adentro, que queda más limpio y, en según qué tejidos nos podemos ahorrar el remate, como en el bajo. Para facilitar la costura recomiendo planchar antes con las dobleces correspondientes. Os recuerdo que hay que dejar un trocito sin coser, un poco más grande que el ancho de la goma para poder meterla.

tutorial falda regional o pastorcilla

Para meter la goma yo tengo un imperdible de seguridad, de los de bebé, que como tiene la cabeza muy grande facilita su movimiento a lo largo del hueco de la cintura. La técnica sería: enganchamos un extremo de la goma al filo del agujero (con imperdible es lo mejor) y con el imperdible de seguridad introducimos la goma en el hueco y la vamos deslizando todo alrededor hasta llegar de nuevo al agujero, donde la sacamos y cosemos los 2 extremos juntos. habiéndonos asegurado antes de que la goma está plana todo alrededor. Estiramos un poco para que se quede bien y cosemos el agujero.
A mí no me gusta nada que se mueva la goma, se retuerza y eso, por lo que paso otra costura por encima de la goma en el extremo superior de la cintura. Si la goma es estrecha queda mejor con la costura centrada.

Para el bajo, podemos rematar el filo, y coser el dobladillo con puntada invisible, costura sencilla o doble; o doblar 2 veces (no necesita remate) como en los pantalones vaqueros, por ejemplo, y hacer una costura sencilla al filo de la doblez e , incluso hacer otra costura en el filo del bajo para que quede más plano. muy recomendable en cierto tipo de tejidos que ni planchados se aplastan.

 

SIN ESTEREOTIPOS: CORREGIMOS LAS MEDIDAS DEL LARGO EN UNA FALDA CON VUELO

 
tutorial falda de moda
Lucy Liu
en Elementary

Diría que ya está pero mi experiencia haciendo estas faldas es que no quedan iguales de largas por delante que por detrás con estas medidas rectangulares, y ya que las estamos haciendo a medida, a mí me gusta hacer las correcciones necesarias para que quede iguales de largas por todo el contorno.
Porque no hay 2 personas iguales y el objetivo de este blog no es enseñar a coser sino hacer que nos sintamos a gusto con lo que llevamos y ¿qué hay más favorecedor que una prenda que nos queda perfecta?

Por lo que aquí es donde os explico cómo adaptar los patrones estándares al cuerpo de cada quien para que sea lo más favorecedor posible.
En este modelo de falda en especial y, en general, en los modelos de falda con vuelo, las correcciones del largo de falda se pueden hacer desde el bajo, lo que es posible de 2 maneras:

1) Poniendo de lado frente a un espejo a la persona a la que se le está haciendo la falda con ella puesta en su sitio natural y calzada. En este caso se coge bajo a ojo respecto a la imagen reflejada en el espejo de forma que veamos que queda a la misma altura de la rodilla o del suelo, según el largo que le vamos a dar.
2) Con la modelo en la misma postura que antes pero sin necesidad de espejo, vamos midiendo desde el suelo al filo del bajo por todo el contorno y vamos cogiendo el bajo siempre a la misma medida.
En cualquier caso habrá que redondear el bajo para que no queden picos ni escalones sino que puesto se vea recto.

Para que entendáis por qué surge esta diferencia, os comento los dos motivos principales:
1) Recordad que en el patrón base de falda la parte delantera tenía una bajada de 2 cm, lo que para ciertas figuras puede ser más o menos (por tener el trasero o la barriga más prominentes). Para conocer estas diferencias respecto al patrón base estándar es muy importante que hayamos hecho un patrón base corregido de nuestro cuerpo. Digo el nuestro porque el patrón base corregido interesará elaborarlo para “clientas habituales” ya que para una sóla falda que se le haga a una persona no merece la pena hacer un patrón base estándar, una glasa, probarla, corregirla, corregir el patrón en papel con las correcciones de la glasa, hacer un nuevo patrón definitivo con la forma y modelo deseados y luego elaborar la prenda, probarla y volverla a corregir…(Uff)

2) En el caso de las niñas principalmente, es muy habitual que tengan barriguilla y que el sitio natural de la cintura sea debajo de ésta, por lo que el largo delantero será inferior al trasero. Una media de 3 cm de diferencia normalmente.

Obviamente estas medidas hay que corregirlas antes de coser el bajo, por lo que recomiendo hilvanar, probar, corregir y coser.

USOS DE LA FALDA SENCILLA CON VUELO

 

Foto: Tu ropa molona

Este tipo de falda sin forma y con vuelo no son apropiadas para personas voluminosas, ya que nos añaden volumen. En cambio, son ideales para niñas porque con la goma les siguen estando bien durante más tiempo y si, además las hemos dejado bastante largas o más falso para irle sacando, perfecto.
Además, podemos combinarlas con camisetas como las que os mostré en la publicación sobre el color del año según Pantone, el Greenery.
Este es el tipo de falda que se lleva en trajes típicos como el de pastorcilla, o en la mayoría de los trajes regionales españoles, habitualmente con una enagua debajo.
También se puede utilizar este modelo para hacer faldas de tul, que ahora se llevan un montón. Para este modelo de falda recomiendo usar de ancho 3 veces el contorno de cintura
Así que tanto si vais a ir a la moda o necesitáis una falda para vuestro traje típico, espero que este tutorial os haya gustado.

Me encantaría saber la utilidad que le dais a esta falda, así que espero vuestros comentarios.

Desmontando estereotipos, personalizando prendas y accesorios e intentando hacer más sostenible la moda. Fashion Blogger en GRANADA DE MODA app

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