Introducción a la moda sostenible. Semana Fashion Revolution

Siempre digo que intento hacer más sostenible la moda, pero muchos me preguntan ¿qué significa moda sostenible?
Así que antes de hablaros de mi paso por Biocultura y, aprovechando que se acerca la Fashion Revolution Week, es un buen momento para hablar de ello de la manera más accesible de la que soy capaz.

Fashion Revolution


En este caso no acudo a la Wikipedia para las definiciones porque mezcla conceptos, sino que os lo cuento desde mi experiencia así que no dudéis en usar los comentarios o mis redes sociales para plantear las preguntas que os puedan surgir.

crecimiento económico; inclusión social; protección del medio ambiente; desarrollo sostenible


Como introducción, os remito a mis deseos de año nuevo donde expliqué los objetivos de desarrollo sostenible de la ONU, partiendo de la definición de que DESARROLLO SOSTENIBLE = CRECIMIENTO ECONÓMICO + INCLUSIÓN SOCIAL + PROTECCIÓN DEL MEDIO AMBIENTE y esto es totalmente aplicable a la moda, dándole la característica de sostenible.

 

DEFINICIONES EN TORNO A LA MODA SOSTENIBLE


Moda sostenible o slow fashion: Se refiere a aquella moda que se fabrica y distribuye en términos sostenibilidad, es decir, cuidando el medio ambiente, respetando a las personas y/o primando el aspecto emocional y social sobre el económico en todos o en el cualquiera de los procesos productivos, desde la obtención de las materias primas hasta su distribución y venta. No es necesario que se cumplan los 3 componentes de la sostenibilidad en todas las fases para que los productos obtenidos se puedan considerar sostenibles.
Moda ecológica: Aquella moda que para su obtención tiene en cuenta los aspectos medioambientales, es decir. que utiliza materiales ecológicos y/o reciclados, no desperdicia agua ni utiliza químicos, entre otros. De forma que el impacto medioambiental es mínimo o nulo.
Moda vegana: Aquella moda que no utiliza materiales de origen animal.
Moda ética: la moda que tiene en cuenta principalmente los aspectos de inclusión social. Se refiere a aquella que destina una parte de sus ingresos a mejorar el entorno en el que se mueve su ciclo productivo. En un sentido menos estricto se utiliza para aquellas empresas que se aseguran de que se respetan los derechos laborales de las personas que trabajan en su cadena de producción.
Fair trade o comercio justo: En general, estos términos se utilizan para hacer referencia a aquello que se produce específicamente con un sistema que integra a las comunidades que lo producen para asegurarles unas condiciones de vida dignas (no sólo a nivel laboral). Está relacionada con el desarrollo económico. Esta definición en la Wikipedia si está más clara y completa.
Consumo de km0 y/o huella de carbono mínima: hace referencia al comercio de cercanía en ambos casos y, la huella de carbono, además, hace referencia a la contaminación en el proceso productivo.
Por tanto, la moda sostenible es el concepto más amplio y los otros conceptos, que son importantes en términos de sostenibilidad, se refieren a diferentes aspectos incluidos es ésta. Esto provoca que a veces se utilicen como sinónimos.
Probablemente habréis observado que los términos que se utilizan son equivalentes a los usados en la alimentación: slow food, alimentos ecológicos, veganos, … a los cuales estamos mucho más acostumbrados. ¿Por qué? ¿Nos son la alimentación y el vestir bienes igualmente básicos? ¿Somos menos exigentes con lo que nos ponemos que con lo que comemos?

 

CLASIFICACIONES SEGÚN EL CICLO PRODUCTIVO DE LA MODA


Para desconceptualizar los términos y especificar, con la intención de aclarar las definiciones anteriores, esquematizo algunas de las formas en las que se puede conseguir que una prenda, calzado o complemento sea más sostenible:

  • en cuanto a los materiales: reciclados u orgánicos/ecológicos, que no se usen químicos ni desperdicien agua para su obtención.
  • en cuanto a las personas: que condiciones de trabajo de los trabajadores de la cadena productiva sean dignas. Además, muchas empresas apuestan por planes de desarrollo locales (responsabilidad social).
  • en cuanto a su elaboración: zero waste, mínimo impacto ambiental en cuanto aL uso de químicos, huella de carbono o desperdicio de agua, condiciones de trabajo dignas, respeto del entorno en el más amplio sentido,…
  • en cuanto a su distribución: mínima huella de carbono, principalmente a través del comercio de proximidad o km 0.
  • en cuanto a su calidad: slow fashion debe ser sinónimo de durabilidad. El residuo que menos contamina es el que no se genera. Por tanto, más uso, menos contaminación.

No es una clasificación exhaustiva porque es una introducción y no conozco todas las técnicas ni todos los materiales que existen y/o se utilizan para hacer más sostenible la moda debido principalmente a que, por suerte, cada vez se investigan nuevos materiales y procesos y la innovación en este tema es habitual.
En cualquier caso, me parece importante recordar que todos los movimientos en torno al tema de la sostenibilidad y, en el caso del que estamos hablando, de la moda sostenible, van dirigidos a un consumo consciente. El simple hecho de que, después de leer estas líneas, penséis 2 veces antes de comprar, es un éxito. Ya lo indiqué en el post sobre los ODS: somo todos los ciudadanos del mundo con nuestras acciones individuales […] reflexionando en cada acto de consumo que realizamos y prestando atención en cómo interactuamos con lo que nos rodea los que podemos cambiar el sistema hacia un desarrollo sostenible.

FASHION REVOLUTION


Fashion Revolution es un movimiento que aboga por una industria de la moda más justa, más segura, más limpia y más transparente.
Surgió tras el desastre del hundimiento del edificio Rana Plaza, en Bangladesh, el 24 de abril de 2013, donde murieron 1138 personas y 2500 resultaron heridas, todos trabajadores en la industria de la confección.
Con estas premisas, todos los años desde entonces, en torno a esa fecha se realiza el Fashion Revolution Day y la Fashion Revolution Week, donde voluntarios de todo el mundo ponen en marcha muy diferentes actividades para motivar una industria de la moda más sostenible y más transparente.
Todos podemos colaborar, durante todo el año, preguntando a las marcas #QuienHizoMiRopa o #WhoMadeMyClothes. Pero se pretende que el impacto mayor se concentre durante la Fashion Revolution Week, que este año se celebra en los días 24-30 de abril de 2017, fechas en las que se celebran múltiples eventos.
En la página web oficial del movimiento Fashion Revolution podéis encontrar información, recursos, …

who made my clothes; Fashion Revolution

¡Nos vemos en las redes sociales con #FashionRevolution y #WhoMadeMyClothes !

Desmontando estereotipos, personalizando prendas y accesorios e intentando hacer más sostenible la moda. Fashion Blogger en GRANADA DE MODA app

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