Moda sostenible y agroecología
Hace algún tiempo la gente de Somos Vega Somos Tierra me comentó que estaban interesados en contar conmigo por mis conocimientos de moda sostenible para unas jornadas sobre sostenibilidad y potencialidades del territorio. Pensé ¿Por qué no?
Aunque tengo que reconocer que cuando me dijeron que iba a exponer en una mesa de experiencias sobre agroecología me eché las manos a la cabeza y dije ¿dónde me he metido?
LA PRESENTACIÓN SOBRE MODA SOSTENIBLE Y AGROECOLOGÍA
Pero preparé ésta presentación y allí que fui.
En la publicación sobre los ODS os conté lo que se ve en las 2 primeras diapositivas, sobre cómo la ONU ha decidido sentar unas bases hacia un futuro más sostenible, a través de los 17 ODS con sus metas en un plazo establecido en la Agenda 2030.
Así que partiendo de la base de la sostenibilidad, planteo a grandes rasgos la insostenibilidad en la industria de la moda, principalmente causada por el fast fashion. En especial:
– la contaminación provocada por los químicos que se utilizan en la fabricación, incluso vertidos indiscriminados de tintes en los ríos de los terceros países en los que se elaboran la mayor parte de las prendas y donde su legislación no protege lo suficiente el medio ambiente
– el exceso de desechos debido a una moda que no está hecha para durar y que provoca que no dé tiempo a reciclar, que sobre ropa en las tiendas de segunda mano, en las organizaciones que reparten ropa a los mas necesitados e incluso en los países africanos a los que se mandaba el sobrante. Entre otros motivos porque ¿quién quiere ropa de usar y tirar?
– La explotación laboral en el sector es muy grave. Aunque las grandes cadenas comunican que controlan su cadena de producción, la realidad es que en muchas ocasiones se subcontrata y se pierde la trazabilidad. El caso extremo fue el derrumbamiento del Rana Plaza en Bangladesh y que fue el impulsor del movimiento Fashion Revolution.
Pero todo tiene solución y para contrarrestar las debilidades y amenazas del fast fashion o moda rápida yo trabajo a distintos niveles con distintas organizaciones que promueven otra moda, la sostenible. Para conocer un poco mejor mis colaboraciones, reflejadas en esta diapositiva, podéis leer las publicaciones que he hecho sobre estos organismos: Fashion Revolution, AMSE, Granada de Moda
Además, si visitáis el apartado de sostenibilidad del blog, tenéis ya muchas cosas sobre el tema y tened por seguro que os seguiré contando. (Aquí es donde intervenís los lectores y me dejáis comentarios sobre aquello de lo que os gustaría conocer mejor sobre sostenibilidad y moda).
CUÁLES SON LAS POTENCIALIDADES DE LA VEGA DE GRANADA EN LA MODA
Pasando a la ocasión específica de las Jornadas sobre potencialidades del territorio para crear riqueza y trabajo en Granada, la jornada primera, en la que intervine en la mesa experiencias de la primera jornada sobre la Agroecología, plantas y artesanía alimentaria. Sierra, vega y secanos pueden crear riqueza y trabajo.
Decidí centrarme en las materias primas ecológicas que se pueden utilizar en la confección de moda sostenible y de las que, una gran parte, se pueden producir el sector agroecológico, protagonista de las jornadas.
Así, encontramos por un lado las materias primas con las que se confeccionan los tejidos, partiendo de la infografía de Esturirafi y ampliando la lista con otros materiales que conozco, aunque seguro que falta alguno otro material por desconocimiento u olvido. De hecho, días antes de escribir estas líneas publiqué en instagram una marca de moda sostenible que trabaja con lyocel.
Otras materias primas de origen agroecológico que se pueden utilizar son plantas para tintar los tejidos e hilaturas, totalmente naturales y que necesitarán para fijarse sustancias como sal, vinagre u otras menos habituales como el alumbre.

Fuente: bergar
De hecho en las primeras ponencias de la tarde, los expertos en botánica hicieron alusión a la producción de estas plantas tintóreas y su potencial en varias ocasiones.
Aunque no entré en profundidad para no alargar la exposición y, por llegar a la parte de potencialidades, comenté que en las primeras fases de la cadena de la industria de la moda sostenible puede y debe intervenir el sector agroecológico. Tanto en la producción de las materias primas como en la hilatura, que en muchos casos en la práctica está totalmente ligada a este sector.
Espero impaciente vuestras ideas sobre potencialidades de la industria de la moda sostenible.
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