Pasarelas primavera/verano 2017

Una vez digeridas las pasarelas primavera/verano 2017 mostradas en Septiembre, os detallo lo que más me ha gustado de los desfiles de la Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid, como hice con la temporada anterior.

DESTACADOS

Destaco 4 diseñadores vistos en la Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid primavera/verano 2017. Espero que los disfrutéis tanto como yo:
  • Empiezo por el desfile de Ulises Mérida, del que me encantan todos los colores que ha utilizado: blanco, plata, azul marino,… La elegancia de los tejidos que fluyen con líneas sencillas llevadas de formas originales y enmarcadas con detalles que llaman la atención.
Printemps 2017; Spring Summer 2017
Fuente: Vogue

  • Luke Leandro Cano: ha creado una colección con un sólo tema desde varios puntos de vista en la que destacan la originalidad y maestría de los apliques de amapolas y pueblos blancos. Para deleitar a aquellos que aprecian el verano de pueblo mas bien de interior. Con materiales básicos y pocos colores pero con adornos en 3D y volúmenes nos cuenta una historia maravillosa que huele y suena a verano.
Printemps 2017; Spring Summer 2017
Fuente: Vogue

 

  • En la colección de Alvarno lo que se viste es la noche. Con pantalones cargo, con unos bolsillos superpuestos maravilloso y los bajos remangados. También minivestidos. con diseños más bien planos en contraposición a la tendencia pero nada aburridos gracias a las combinaciones de maravillosos y variados colores en telas estampadas y bordados que dan vida de fiesta caliente principalmente al minivestido negro aunque hay otros muchos, para casi todos los gustos. Desmontando lo básico de los little black dress o petit robe noire y los conviertiéndolos en mucho más.
Printemps 2017; Spring Summer 2017
Fuente: Vogue

 

  • El desfile presentado por Jorge Vázquez, en cambio, se divide en 2 estilos. Por un lado, maravillosos fondos marinos y, por otro, mujeres guerreras, estilo safari pero muy elegantes. Lo que lleva al uso de unos colores muy naturales como azules agua y verdes bosque. Este tipo de colores naturales han sido la tendencia general en los distintos desfiles vistos para la temporada primavera/verano 2017. No dejéis de observar el uso de los cinturones y el toque de las cintas bandoleras así como los apliques que magnifican los estampados sobre telas vaporosas, también de gran tendencia. Aunque no puedo evitar comentar que no me gusta que use el color granate como básico.
Printemps 2017; Spring Summer 2017
Fuente: Vogue

NO OS PERDÁIS…

En cualquier caso, quiero destacar algunos detalles de otros diseñadores españoles, por su maestría, originalidad y bienhacer:
 
  • Sorprendentes las formas tipo origami utilizadas por Amaya Arzuaga. Limpieza geométrica de volúmenes, de clara tendencia.
  • La colección de Maya Hansen que está sacada o destinada a pistas de roller derby, o sea, con inspiración claramente deportiva al igual que la de Moisés Nieto. En general, los diseños sporty son tendencia.
  • El contrapunto a lo deportivo lo encontramos en los trajes de invitada perfecta de Hannibal Laguna.
Es curioso que los diseñadores que más me han gustado de esta pasarela española no se repitan respecto a la publicación de la temporada anterior.
De nuevo, he usado las imágenes que amablemente publican Vogue España y Elle España, tanto para esta publicación como para compartir en mi muro de Pinterest de pasarelas 2017, en el que no sólo veréis a estos diseñadores sino todo lo que me ha gustado de la temporada primavera/verano 2017 de todas las pasarelas.

TENDENCIAS

Así que, una vez visto todo, aparte de los apuntes sobre tendencias que he hecho desde el análisis de estos diseñadores españoles, añado algunos detalles extra que no debemos dejar de tener en mente cuando actualicemos nuestro armario la próxima primavera 2017:
 
  • El color blanco, la luz tan presente en verano, aparece desde el más puro al más vintage
  • Colores naturales: madera, tierra, bosque, mar profundo, agua clara
  • En cortes siguen en boga deconstrucciones, oversize y pijamas. Se vuelven a ver un clásico del verano como el corte safari con bolsillos pero con versiones muy renovadas.
  • En cuanto a tejidos, se agradecen aquellos vaporosos y distintos tipos de calados, junto con transparencias y brillos. Los tejidos con más cuerpo se utilizan sobre todo en cortes voluminosos.
  • Como complementos predomina el calzado plano, cinturones de muy diferentes formas y colores, sombreros de ala caída y…
  • Bolsos, mochilas, riñoneras y, en general, cualquier tipo de bolsillo a agregar en cualquier parte, también en brazos y piernas.
 
¿Qué otras tendencias destacaríais? ¿Cuáles son los diseños que más os han gustado de la temporada primavera / verano 2017?

Desmontando estereotipos, personalizando prendas y accesorios e intentando hacer más sostenible la moda. Fashion Blogger en GRANADA DE MODA app

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