Patrón base falda
INTRODUCCIÓN
Para introduciros este tutorial os voy a contar un poquito de mi historia: Yo pasé una parte importante de mi infancia en casa de mis abuelos, que había sido taller de sastrería, donde mi abuelo era sastre y mi abuela modista. Así que llevo la moda en la sangre y está presente entre mis primeros recuerdos. Dicen que ya con 3 años me dejaban un retal y la caja de los botones y me pasaba el rato cosiendolos.
Casi toda la ropa que tuve hasta el instituto era a medida y, debido a que, como la mayoría, no encajo en ningún estándar (o esa es la impresión que tengo cada vez que salgo a comprar ropa o calzado), siempre he deseado retomar ese concepto tanto para mi ropa como para la del resto del mundo.
Con esa intención, y tras varios fracasos haciendo las cosas a ojo o de manera intuitiva, hace un par de años me inscribí en el Taller de Moda que organiza Caja Granada Fundación donde tuve la gran suerte de encontrarme a Chon, la profesora, quien me ha ayudado muchísimo con las técnicas a aplicar para plasmar mis ideas.
En esta publicación sólo desarrollo la elaboración del patrón base de falda, partiendo de la suposición de que conocemos nuestras medidas y sin indicar cómo usar el patrón sobre la tela para cortarla, conceptos que serán objeto de futuras publicaciones.
LA TÉCNICA
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Para el patrón base de falda partimos de un rectángulo que ha de medir de ancho (AB) ¼ del contorno de cadera y de alto (AC) el largo de falda +1 .
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Hacemos una marca (D) en la medida de bajada de cadera +1, en la vertical derecha. En la horizontal de este rectángulo hacemos una marca en la medida de ¼ del contorno de cintura (E) y a ½ entre el punto E y B marcamos F. Unimos D y F con una curva (recomiendo reglas específicas).
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A la mitad de AE (G) marcamos el punto de pinza (H) a unos 10cm de altura, aunque esta medida depende de la talla. Dibujamos los puntos E’F’, que son la extrapolación de la medida EF, con centro en G. Unimos E’H y F’H para dibujar la pinza.
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En la vertical izquierda medimos 2,5cm desde A (medida que también depende de la talla) y marcamos el punto I. Hacemos la curva de la cintura (IF) et voilá!. Ya tenemos el patrón base delantero de nuestra falda.
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Para el patrón base trasero de falda marcamos H a 12cm y sólo damos la bajada de 1,5cm.
PERSONALIZACIÓN
Este patrón necesitará una serie de correcciones ya que ninguno de nosotros somos simétricos ni tenemos las proporcione ideales. Los retoques los haremos en una glasilla que nos sirva de prototipo. Nos probaremos y marcaremos con alfileres, bolígrafo u otro las modificaciones que trasladaremos posteriormente en plano al patrón base (estándar) obtenido siguiendo las instrucciones de este tutorial y ése patrón corregido será nuestro patrón personalizado definitivo.
Al igual que para tomarnos medidas, las modificaciones no podemos marcarlas nosotros mismos necesitaremos la ayuda de otra persona.
Casi cualquier modelo de falda que queramos diseñar usará este patrón base, realizando sobre él trasformaciones o traslados de los elementos y medidas plasmados.
Espero que hayáis disfrutado de mi primer tutorial.
Desmontando estereotipos, personalizando prendas y accesorios e intentando hacer más sostenible la moda. Fashion Blogger en GRANADA DE MODA app
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