Tendencias Otoño / Invierno 2018/2019
Esta vez os ofrezco un enfoque diferente al análisis de tendencias para la temporada otoño / invierno 2018/2019, porque para ver lo que más me ha gustado podéis pasaros por mi tablero de Pinterest de pasarelas MSE 2019 y porque hay muchas cosas en común tanto en la MBFWMadrid como en las pasarelas extranjeras. Además os ofrezco las opciones más sostenibles para estas tendencias.
BÁSICOS
– La chaqueta o el abrigo, como debe ser en invierno, con solapa clásica o cuello chimenea con cremallera, principalmente del tradicional paño de lana o de tejidos técnicos impermeables y rellenos. Lisos o en todo tipo de estampados y en cualquier color.
♦ La opción sostenible: lo bueno de los cortes clásicos es que no pasan de moda. Será fácil encontrarlo de segunda mano y reencontrarlo en nuestro armario o el de nuestra madre. Para los tejidos técnicos la más sofisticada en términos sostenibles que conozco es Ecoalf y para el corte con cremallera podemos hacer upcycling.
– El pantalón, preferentemente en corte recto aunque aún se ven pitillo tobilleros y también hay cortes más amplios como la falda pantalón y algún palazzo. En cualquier tejido y la tendencia es sin estampado a menos que sea combinado en un traje (los menos). Colores oscuros contrastan con el color hielo, distintos tonos de rojo y algún azul océano. No hay casi colores pastel.
♦ Lo más sostenible: retomar este corte que teníamos abandonado en el armario. Para las más mañosas convertir una falda larga de vuelo en pantalón tipo pijama y como marcas sostenibles, encontráis pantalón recto en Alolola la falda pantalón en Ana Ikigai.
– Los vestidos, largos o midi (el corto se queda para las faldas), vaporosos o en lana, con estampados de todo tipo aunque destaca los combinados tipo patchwork y tendencia étnica junto a difuminados o degradé. Y los cuadros… igual o combinado con otra prenda como el abrigo o las medias.
♦ Lo más sostenible: Aquí hay muchas opciones, aprovechar la tendencia parchwork con upcycling o comprar tendencia étnica en Mamá Kitenge o Xelcom Prestige así como la moda mas natural en difuminados en Etikology
CORTES
Capas, tanto en sobretodo como en blusas, vestidos, mangas (aunque este último corte se ve menos que en temporadas anteriores). Siempre en la parte superior. Ayudan al efecto superposición que es la mayor tendencia a destacar. Podemos ver una capa sobre un abrigo que se lleva sobre una chaqueta y ésta sobre una blusa (de ahí el sobretodo).
Acorde con esto, vemos vuelo en pantalones, vestidos y faldas aunque menos voluminosos que en temporadas anteriores.
En cambio, las partes de abajo son más rectas, las faldas y vestidos han perdido vuelo y los pantalones lo han ganado.
Cruzado, en abrigos y chaquetas de doble botonadura, en faldas tipo colegial o en blusas y vestidos enlazados de manera clásica o en complicados nudos y drapeados como en Juan Vidal.
Pijama: échale imaginación y el pijama más masculino nos dará el mejor corte en chaquetas, blusas, pantalones, abrigos tipo bata, … Esto quiere decir, fluidez en los tejidos. (En la imagen kimono de Avasan)
COLORES Y ESTAMPADOS
Los cuadros son los reyes. Ya sabéis que van alternando temporadas los cuadros escoceses con el príncipe de gales, la pata de gallo y el cheviot. Pues el escocés está a la baja, se actualiza en patchwork y deja paso al príncipe de gales, que es uno de mis preferidos, sobre todo con hilo entrecruzado de color que le de algo de vida a los tradicionales tonos de gris. Aunque lo he visto en tonos naranjas y me ha encantado. Y podéis ir preparando la pata de gallo para la siguiente ya que esta temporada ha aparecido tímidamente en formato grande.
Como os adelantaba, hay mucho degradé y difuminado que además también me gustan mucho y hay muchas opciones sostenibles ya que cuando se aplican tintes naturales de forma artesanal es un estampado relativamente fácil de conseguir.
Se mezclan colores en el punto consiguiendo dar textura.
Predominan los estampados abstractos y las aplicaciones de bolas o piezas étnicas sobre los estampados naturales que yo prefiero en primavera.
En texturas va desapareciendo el pelo aunque no los flecos, que se reconvierten. El terciopelo resurge. A plantearlo muy seriamente en el corte pijama.
En cuanto a colores, como he comentado, prevalecen los oscuros:
– El morado que es el color pantone del año (ultraviolet) se oscurece a tonos vino,
– Se combina con maravillosos naranjas, en distintos tonos, desde el teja al anaranjado.
– Imprescindible el negro.
– El verde se utiliza en distintos tonos en un mismo tejido o estampado dando lugar a preciosas texturas dignas de hadas de los bosques.
– Seguimos viendo el amarillo en tonos menos ocres y más empolvados.
– Y el rey de la temporada, para mí, es el rojo. Sólo o en estampado, fuego o granate, en raso, terciopelo, punto. O simplemente dando un toque en adornos o complementos. Es una buena inversión.
COMPLEMENTOS
Mi favorito es el bolso llevado a modo de riñonera, que lo hay de todos los tamaños.
Y el más visto, el cinturón, rematando esos looks sobretodo en formato fajín o una cinta con arandela. (Próximamente en un DIY en este blog)
La bufanda, el chal, la bufamanta y la capa ganan la partida a los pañuelos (que pasan a la cabeza, cual campesina rusa) y pashminas.
Por supuesto, repasando las pasarelas de todo el mundo que yo suelo consultar principalmente en vogue.es y elle.es, podréis aprecias más tendencias y tendréis preferencias diferentes a las mías. Pero en resumen yo me quedo con las interminables capas de ropa superpuestas con efecto de estar combatiendo el frío como sino dispusiéramos de las últimas tecnologías en tejidos térmicos.
¿Cuáles son vuestros favoritos? ¿Qué prendas de marcas sostenibles conocéis que encajen en las tendencias que he detallado?
Os recuerdo que no hay nada más sostenible que alargar la vida de las prendas, maximizando su uso y es lo que debemos tener en mente cuando actualicemos nuestro armario.
Desmontando estereotipos, personalizando prendas y accesorios e intentando hacer más sostenible la moda. Fashion Blogger en GRANADA DE MODA app
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