XV Certamen de Jóvenes Diseñadores de Andalucía Oriental (I)

El pasado día 10 de febrero de 2017 se celebró en el Parque de las Ciencias de Granada el XV Certamen de Jóvenes Diseñadores de Andalucía Oriental, organizado por ANDE, donde los asistentes pudimos apreciar 6 modelos de cada uno de los 10 diseñadores seleccionados, además del vídeo de presentación de sus colecciones.
No puedo evitar comentar que nos tuvieron esperando más de una hora desde la hora en la que estábamos citados hasta la hora en la que efectivamente comenzó.
Una vez que empezó, todos los diseños eran superoriginales. Para que entendáis mejor lo que se vivimos aquella noche, a esta publicación le he dado formato de fotoentrevista. Este formato ha salido más largo de la cuenta por lo que publico en 2 partes. En pocos días estará la otra publicación. (2ª parte)
La fotoentrevista consiste en añadir a las fotos que Carlos Newland de Apielviper hizo del desfile y que me ha cedido para esta publicación, las respuestas que amablemente me han aportado cada uno de los diseñadores participantes en el Certamen a las siguientes preguntas:

¿Qué es para ti la moda?
¿En qué o quién se inspira la colección mostrada en el Certamen?
¿Qué te inspira más a la hora de diseñar (texturas, colores, cortes … y otros como paisajes, gente…)?
4º Complemento que consideras imprescindible para un look completo.
¿Quién te gustaría que luciera tus diseños?

Por orden de aparición en el evento:

Ánver

Contacto oficial: https://anvermoda.wordpress.com/

Anver; diseño moda;
Fotos: Carlos Newland

Para nosotros la moda es una forma de expresión y una forma de que las personas pueden ver todo lo que está en nuestra cabeza.
La colección AURA se inspira en mujeres valientes, muy seguras de sí mismas y decididas. Está representada en la colección la protección que aporta el aura, además de los triángulos que significan para nosotros la unión entre pasado, presente y futuro.
Lo que más nos inspira es el tejido con el que trabajamos y de ahí poder conseguir las formas que queremos, también nos inspira mucho los colores, ya que nuestras colecciones suelen tener una elección muy cuidada de los colores.
Unos zapatos diferentes que hagan del look, un look estrella.
Nos encantaría que vistieran nuestros diseños: Jennifer Lawrence, Emma Watson y Dakota Johnson.

Carmen Gómez

Carmen Gomez; diseño de moda
Fotos: Carlos Newland

A medida que voy cursando mis estudios, voy descubriendo nuevas facetas y acepciones de lo que es la moda. Actualmente la veo como un entramado de significados culturales que se materializan y concretan a través de primero el tejido y luego las prendas confeccionadas. Es un reflejo de la sociedad que la produce, y como tal deja entrever mucho más que los meros gustos estéticos del momento. Expresa las contradicciones, estereotipos, tradiciones, historia, cambios, ideales, etc… en definitiva, el sentir de una época. La moda me resulta tan interesante por su riqueza de significados, ya que a un mismo tiempo puede ser frívola o sensata, divertida o anodina, trascendente o superficial, individualista o colectiva, política, filosófica, religiosa, histórica, sentimental… y más importantemente universal, puesto que para vivir en sociedad (no nudista) todos aceptamos vestirnos y nos vemos obligados a mantener al menos un mínimo grado de relación con la ropa y el universo de significados que tiene asociados.
2º ARENA DE RELOJ es sin duda una mirada nostálgica hacia una mujer del pasado, hacia aquel ideal ya extinto de perfección constreñida, con el que yo me he sentido identificada emocionalmente. Las formas y líneas son las clásicas de los años 50, pero se concretan de manera contradictoria a través del uso de colores complementarios azul-naranja, la mezcla indiscriminada de tejidos nobles, llanos y sintéticos, la inclusión de motivos pixelados y los accesorios retro-futuristas. Me gusta la idea de partir de conceptos antagónicos o contrastados para crear, y en esta colección podríamos hablar de pasado-futuro y razón-intuición. El libro Mujeres que Corren con Lobos de Clarissa Pinkola Estés fue la lectura que me impulsó a adentrarme en la aventura de la creación de esta primera colección y me acompañó y guió durante el viaje de autoexploración que supuso.
En mi vida diaria encuentro estímulos por todas partes, y como es lógico, algunos de ellos permean en mis ideas a la hora de diseñar. Me inspiran a partes iguales tanto las pasarelas internacionales como los estilismos de la gente de a pie que veo por las calles de Granada, así como todo tipo de arquitectura (de autor o urbana), fotografía y demás artes visuales, el amplio universo de internet… la lista es interminable. Aparte de todo ese imaginario que tengo en mente cuando diseño, el contacto y la manipulación del tejido a emplear me resulta cada vez más crucial para inspirarme.
No hay look sin zapatos. No son precisamente un complemento opcional, y resultan cruciales para completar un estilismo. Determinan totalmente la manera de caminar, e incluso la postura, de la persona que los lleva, y por tanto cambian la manera en que se moverá y desplegará tu prenda o estilismo.
Ver mis diseños en la calle, en cualquier parte del mundo, llevados por cualquier mujer que se sienta identificada con mis colecciones y lo que hay detrás de ellas ya sería gratificante de por sí. Pero si tengo que nombrar a alguien en concreto, no negaré que me haría muchísima ilusión llegar a ver a Leandra Medine del blog Man Repeller con alguno de mis diseños. La considero un icono de estilo en toda regla; me fascina cómo juega con las prendas, divirtiéndose a la hora de componer estilismos funcionales pero muy expresivos.

María Linde

Maria Linde; diseño de moda
Fotos: Carlos Newland

La moda para mí es la forma de representar todo lo que siento en cada momento, la percepción que tengo del arte y transmitirla en forma de colecciones.
El tema de inspiración de HIKNI trata de experiencias vividas y los sentimientos a los que llevan estos sucesos, la lucha interna para combatirlos pasando por diferentes reacciones, empezando por el sentimiento de rabia contenida, impotencia, pensamientos oscuros y finalmente la rendición, esto provoca un efecto de coraza que se va graduando según el estado de ánimo interno.
Cuando diseño me inspiro en las situaciones que me rodean, también suelo buscar tejidos que trasmitan estas sensaciones y todo esto lo reflejo en las siluetas, cortes o volúmenes que caracterizan a Mlinde.
4º En cuanto a complementos es imprescindible llevar un bolso o mochila que contraste con el look, y si nos gusta la bisutería se puede combinar con unos pendientes grandes si llevamos escote o un collar original para resaltar el busto.
Cuando creo mis diseños pienso en una mujer real, fuerte y femenina. No me importa la talla sino resaltar lo mejor de cada persona, que luzca moderna y única.

Melania Mendoza

Melania Mendoza; diseño de moda
Fotos: Carlos Newland

La moda para mí es algo muy importante para las personas ya que tan solo por la forma en la que vamos vestidos dice mucho de cómo somos, ya que la ropa es capaz de transmitir muchas cosas de nosotros mismos y a la vez de cómo de la sociedad en la que vivimos, por eso me encanta que hoy en día no exista un solo estilo que esté de moda, ya que hay tantos estilos como personas y todos estamos de moda ya que todos tenemos algo interesante que aportar a este mundo aun sin saberlo.
La colección que presenté está inspirada principalmente en mi abuela ya que reutilicé para realizarla todo el ganchillo que ella ha realizado a lo largo de su vida, rescaté este ganchillo de un baúl en el que se encontraba, que ya había empezado a amarillearse y a salirle manchas, pero para realizar esta colección quise mantener esas manchas ya que también está inspirado en la fotografía antigua en blanco y negro y me resultaban interesantes estas manchas ya que en la fotografía con el tiempo también le salen manchas y se comienzan a oxidar, además esta mancha es la que hace que se vea que ya ha pasado el tiempo por estas piezas de ganchillo y de esta forma da nombre a la colección TEJIDO DE RECUERDOS.
A la hora de diseñar sobre todo me inspiran estados de ánimo o sentimientos como en este proyecto la nostalgia que te puede surgir al volver a ojear un álbum de fotos, tras esto ya comienzo a pensar en imágenes relacionadas con estos materiales, texturas, colores…etc. Mi trabajo va desde lo más intangible hasta transformarse en algo real
Sin duda una cazadora de cuero, no hay nada con lo que no quede bien, creo que es un imprescindible dentro de un armario.
Tengo una lista interminable de iconos de la moda que me encantaría que luciesen alguno de mis diseños, pero sólo voy a decir unas pocas de las que componen esta lista, por ejemplo, Rihanna, me encantaría, con su estilo tan camaleónico y agresivo en ocasiones, Lily Collins tan dulce, Carmen Dell´orefice, la elegancia personificada o Maribel Verdú,que siempre es espectacular. Si alguna de estas celebridades luciera alguno de mis diseños algún día ya abría cumplido un sueño.

Paz Guillen

Contacto oficial: www.atelierpazguillen.com
Paz Guillen; diseño de moda
Fotos: Carlos Newland

Para mí es la forma de expresarme, en mis diseños se plasman mis sentimientos, mis vivencias… En cada uno de mis diseños hay una parte de mí.
RACINE se inspira en un sentimiento, en la necesidad de volver al inicio, de estudiar los pasos que has dado en tu vida cambiar de perspectiva y volver a empezar. Todo este sentimiento lo tengo ligado a la villa de Saboya (Savoye en francés) y a una historia contada por alguien querido. El origen es distinto en cada persona, y yo necesitaba volver a mi origen.
Depende del momento de mi vida en el que me encuentre, pero como nexo de unión de todas mis creaciones es el estudio del Patronaje, para conseguir volúmenes y formas estructuradas, me apasionan…
La seguridad de una mujer al llevarlo, da igual como vistas o cual sea tu estilo, si una mujer está segura de sí misma las prendas se ven diferentes.
Mujeres reales que valoren el trabajo que hay detrás de cada diseño y disfruten de él.


En breve tendréis disponible una segunda parte sobre este Certamen. ya que el formato de las imágenes de los diseños junto a las palabras de los propios diseñadores es muy interesante pero alarga demasiado la publicación. Y allí os contaré quién fue el ganador.

Muchas gracias a Carlos Newland y a todos los diseñadores por sus aportaciones, que han conseguido que esta publicación sea especialmente artística.

Desmontando estereotipos, personalizando prendas y accesorios e intentando hacer más sostenible la moda. Fashion Blogger en GRANADA DE MODA app

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